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take Audrey's Diamond
Tour
Budget - how much can
afford to invest
Quality - the 4Cs
Finding a Quality Jeweller
Buying Check List
Tricks and Traps to Avoid
Reference and Technical Information
Canadian Diamonds
Conflict Diamonds
Marriage Proposal Information
Budget
Buying a diamond means investing in a
piece of forever. A true miracle
of nature dating from the beginning of
time, each diamond purchase is special.
Every individual buying a diamond seeks
out the best they can afford. Nature's
variety means that you will always find
a diamond to suit your taste, budget and
occasion. If you're about to buy a
diamond engagement ring, you may want to
consider the often-quoted guideline of
spending one to two months' salary.
You can rest assured that the diamond
you buy will be a sound financial
investment. Their rare qualities
have been sought after for thousands of
years. Their desirability and
value remain undiminished today and will
continue through the years to come.
Whatever you spend, your diamond will
represent one of life's deepest
emotional investments. It may
eventually be passed down for
generations, cherished not just for what
it is worth, but for what it means.
Diamonds are forever and their value
usually appreciates over time. Consider
the diamond's significance. For
example a wedding dress is worn once,
the engagement ring, every day for the
rest of her life.
the 4Cs
Many people are confused about how
diamonds are priced. The best
explanation is that asking for the price
of a diamond is like asking for the
price of a house.

A real estate agent can't quote you a
price for a house without knowing its
size, condition, location, etc.
This process is the same when
buying a diamond. A diamond's
beauty, rarity, and price depend on the
interplay of all the 4Cs - cut, clarity,
carat, and colour.
The 4Cs are used throughout the world to
classify the rarity of diamonds. Diamonds with the combination of the
highest 4C ratings are more rare and,
consequently, more expensive. No
one C is more important than another in
terms of beauty and it is important to
note that each of the 4Cs will not
diminish in value over time.
Once you have established those 4C
characteristics that are most important
to you, a jeweller can then begin to show
you various options with quoted prices.
Diamond origin has recently become very
important in the industry. No one
wants to own a
conflict diamond.
Canadian diamonds are now available
in the marketplace.

Carat
Refers to the weight of a diamond.

Carat is often confused with size even
though it is actually a measure of
weight. One carat is weighs 200
milligrams (one fifth of a gram). One
carat can also be divided into 100
'points.' A 0.75-carat diamond is
the same as a 75 point or 3/4 carat
diamond.

A one-carat diamond costs exactly double
the price of a half-carat diamond,
right? Wrong!
Larger diamonds are found less
frequently in nature. Larger
diamonds are rarer. A one-carat
diamond will cost much more than
two a 1/2-carat diamond, assuming colour,
clarity and cut remain constant.
The cut and mounting can make a diamond
appear larger or smaller than its actual
weight. So shop around and talk to
your jeweller to find the right diamond
and setting to optimize the beauty of
your stone.

Clarity
Refers to the presence of inclusions in
a diamond.
Every diamond is unique. Nature
ensures that each diamond is as
individual as the person who wears it.
Naturally occurring features know as
'inclusions' provide a special
fingerprint within the stone.
Inclusions are natural identifying
characteristics such as minerals or
fractures, appearing while diamonds are
formed in the earth. They may look like
tiny crystals, clouds or feathers.
To view inclusions, jewellers use a
magnifying loupe or microscope. These
tools allow jewellers to see a diamond
at 10x its actual size so the inclusions
are easier to see.
The position of inclusions can affect
the value of a diamond. There are
very, very few flawless diamonds found
in nature, thus these diamonds are much
more valuable.
Inclusions are ranked on a
scale of
perfection, known as clarity, which was
established by the Gemological Institute
of America (GIA). The clarity
scale, ranging from F (Flawless) to
Included (I), is based on the visibility
of inclusions at a magnification of 10x.
Sometimes a mounting can hide some
inclusions, thus having little effect on
the beauty of a diamond. An inclusion in
the middle or top of a diamond could
impact the dispersion of light,
sometimes making the diamond less
brilliant.
The greater a diamond's clarity, the
more brilliant, valuable and rare it is.
Colour
Refers to the degree to which a diamond
is colourless.

Diamonds are found in almost every
colour
of the rainbow, but white coloured
diamonds remain most popular.
Diamonds are graded on a colour scale
established by the Gemological Institute
of America (GIA) which ranges from D
(colourless) to Z.
Warmer coloured diamonds (J-Z) are
particularly desirable when set in
yellow gold. Icy winter whites
(D-I) look stunning set in white gold or
platinum.
Colour differences are very subtle and it
is very difficult to see the difference
between,
say, an E and a G.
Therefore, colours are graded under
controlled lighting conditions and are
compared to a master set of laboratory
graded colours for accuracy.
Truly colourless stones, graded D,
treasured for their rarity, are highest
on the colour scale. Colour
ultimately comes down to
personal taste. Which colour is
better is up to you - we can just tell
you which grade is more expensive, not
which is better. Ask a jeweller to
show you a variety of colour grades next
to one another to help you determine
your colour preference.
Cut
Refers to the angles and proportions of
a diamond.
Nature determines so much about a
diamond, but it takes a master cutter to
reveal the stone's true brilliance, fire
and ultimate beauty.
Based on scientific formulas, a well-cut
diamond will internally reflect light
from one mirror-like facet to another
and disperse and reflect it through the
top of the stone.
You may
hear the terms; 'Hearts and Arrows',
'Hearts of Fire' etc, these are just
fancy marketing names for diamonds who
have excellent cuts.

The result is a display of brilliance
and fire, thereby placing well-cut
diamonds higher on the diamond quality
pyramid than deep or shallow-cut
diamonds. Diamonds that are cut
too deep or too shallow lose or leak
light through the side or bottom,
resulting in less brilliance and
ultimately, value.
Cut also refers to shape - round,
square, pear, marquise, or heart for
example. Since a round diamond is
symmetrical and capable of reflecting
nearly all the light that enters, it is
the most brilliant of all diamond shapes
and follows specific proportional
guidelines.
Finding a Quality Jeweller
the 5th C is Confidence
A good jeweller is an essential step to
a smart diamond purchase. To find a
jeweller you can trust, ask your family
and friends for recommendations.
Your jeweller should be knowledgeable
about diamonds, have sufficient
inventory to present you with options
and be ethical and trustworthy.
Checklist
things
to determine about the jeweller:
1. check affiliations and
accreditation, is the jeweller a member
of:
(or the equivalent organizations in
your country)
Canadian Jewellers Association
Better Business Bureau
Canadian Code of Diamond Conduct
2. What is the refund-return
policy? Is it in writing?
3. What is the warranty on the
diamond and setting? Is it in writing?
4. How can I be sure the
diamond is the quality the jeweller
claims it be?
5. Does the diamond come with
independent laboratory certification
EGL, IGL, GemScan or GIA?
6. What is the origin of the
diamond? How can I be sure of the
diamonds origin and that it isn't
a 'blood
diamond?'
7. Separate prices so you can
comparison shop. What is the price
of the major diamond and what is the price of
the setting and accent gems?
8. What will be done if she
doesn't like the ring setting?
9. How long does ring sizing or
alterations take and who does them?
10. What is the future trade up
policy on the diamond? Is it in writing?
11. Does the bill of sale specify,
all the characteristics you've been told
about the diamond?
12. Has this diamond been
artificially treated or enhanced?
Tricks and Traps to Avoid
Found a diamond
ring at HALF the
appraised price!
Only 1/2?
Inflated appraisals plague the jewellery
industry. If anyone presents you
an appraisal of value during the sales
process - be wary. Such an
appraisal is often produced by the
seller of the diamond or someone in
their employ.
Usually these appraisals are grossly
inflated in order to trick you into
believing you are getting a great
bargain. Do not be fooled by this
scam often used by pawn shops or
exchanges.
Any appraisal even an honest one,
only provides a recommendation of insurance,
not what the diamond can or should be
purchased for today. Comparison
shop!
They say this diamond is SI clarity
and G-J colour These are both a range of quality.
For a larger diamond there is a huge
price difference between SI1, SI2
and SI3 clarity or G and
J colour. Larger
diamonds are not graded in ranges.
How can I be sure the diamond is of the
quality they say it is? You cannot be sure, unless the diamond
comes with an credible independent laboratory
report. Diamond grading is
subjective, someone's opinion. Misrepresentation of
diamond quality is rampant.
Major diamonds should come with an
independent laboratory report giving its
weight, clarity, colour and cut grades.
Accepted labs are EGL, IGL, GemScan,
CanadaMark and
GIA.
Found a ring on a half price sale? Oh sure. Diamonds and precious
metals have cash value on the
international market.
Differences
in price is only related to:
- what the item cost the
seller to purchase or manufacture
- what the
seller's profit margin is
- what the taxes in the country
and customs charges if the diamond or jewelry is imported
There are no 'used' diamonds.
Diamonds don't depreciate or wear out.
Comparison shop!
Found a bargain diamond on the
net in an other country? Misrepresentation is
more rampant online than
it is in retail stores - be very
cautious.
Canadian customers buying jewellery or diamonds internationally:
you will be GST and possibly duty and customs fees
and brokerage charges.
Check with Canada Customs to see what's
involved if importing jewellery from
outside Canada.
When currency exchange, taxes, duties,
shipping and insurance are factored in;
that international bargain often no
longer looks
that good.
American customers buying Canadian jewellery or diamonds:
Canada and the United States have a Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA).
Regardless of which state you're in, you don't pay state taxes,
import duties, brokerage fees, or anything else.
By purchasing Canadian made jewelry, you receive the benefit of
our low Canadian dollar you don't have to pay any import fees.
You also benefit from the large Canadian diamond market.
US competitors must pay heavy excise taxes to import diamonds
internationally.
Always deal with reputable companies.
Returns and remedies through the mail
and net are difficult.
Okay what then is the answer?
- comparison shop
- deal only with reputable jewellers
you trust
- believe certificates from
credible laboratories

Reference and Technical Questions
Clarity Grades

FL: Flawless -- no internal
or external inclusions of any kind
visible under 10x magnification to a
trained observer
(generally this grade isn't used by
gemologists or labs as nothing is
perfect - if a diamond has this grade it
should be verified by two independent
laboratories)
IF: Internally Flawless --
no internal inclusions visible under 10x
magnification to a trained observer, but
there may be some tiny external
irregularities in the finish
VVS-1: Very Very Slightly
Included 1 -- usually just one tiny
inclusion often on the bottom area of a
diamond, visible only to a trained eye
under 10x magnification
VVS-2: Very Very Slightly
Included 2 -- very very tiny inclusions visible
only to a trained eye under 10x
magnification to a trained observer
VS-1: Very Slightly
Included 1 -- very small inclusions only
visible with 10x magnification to a
trained observer
VS-2: Very Slightly
Included 2 -- several very small
inclusions visible with 10x
magnification to a trained observer
SI-1: Slightly Included 1
-- small inclusions visible with 10x
magnification to a trained observer
SI-2: Slightly Included 2
-- several small inclusions visible with
10x magnification to a trained
observer
SI-3: Slightly Included 3
-- minor inclusions that may be visible to the
naked eye for a trained observer
(this is a relatively new grade used
by some laboratories and
gemologists. Basically its a good
I1 with very hard to see inclusions with
the naked eye. For a lab or
gemologist who uses SI3 grading the
diamond will equate to I1 for a lab or
gemologist who doesn't use this grade -
so consider this when comparison
shopping)
I-1: Included 1 -- minor
inclusions
that may visible to the naked eye of an
untrained observer
I-2: Included 2 -- many
inclusions clearly visible to the naked eye
of an untrained observer that also decrease the
diamonds brilliance
I-3: Included 3 -- many
inclusions clearly visible to the naked eye
which decrease the brilliance and
compromise the structure of the diamond,
making it more easily cracked or chipped

Color Grades
colour
scale ranges from D - absolutely
colourless to Z which shows a yellow
overtone
the base colour of diamonds is usually
yellow but brown and green is also
common
very
unusual extreme colours are graded as Z+
colourless D - E - F
near colourless G - H - I - J
(the colour grades above are
considered good gem quality)
very faint yellow K - L - M
faint yellow N - O - P - Q - R
light yellow S - T - U - V - W
- T - Y - Z
(grades of Z+ are for fancy coloured
diamonds)

Technical Information
Colours: Colourless, Yellow, Orange,
Brown, and Black
Extremely rare colours: Red, Blue,
Green, and Purple
Chemical composition: C - carbon
Crystal Structure: Cubic -
isometric
Hardness: 10 Mohs scale

Specific Gravity: 3.52
Refractive Index: 2.42 - singly
refractive
Dispersion: .044
Fluorescence: Photoluminescence -
a natural occurrence of some diamonds,
the emission of a visible glow
stimulated by invisible wavelengths of
ultra violet. Diamonds can fluoresce any
colour; the most common colour is blue.

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